This frees a bracket that holds a metal AC line.Ĥ) Unbolt and remove the wheel well portion of the engine mount bracket. Set it up and out of the way on the wiper cowling.ģ) Remove another nut on the same mount (15mm, use a deep well). That's way too loose to work (guide removed for clarity).Ģ) Unbolt the cruise control unit from the strut tower (13mm) and a stud on top of the wheel well part of the engine mount (15mm). The 13mm stud (on the left) must be removed, the other only loosened.ġ3) Lift and pull the valve cover off the engine, moving it toward the passenger side. The front (radiator side) stud can stay on with the throttle bracket. There is a ground lug behind it that must come off. Take care to gently pry at a place with some "meat" on itġ2) Pull the cover up and now remove the 13mm stud on the firewall side. Use a small prybar at reinforced points on the cover to gently.and I mean gently, work the cover loose. There are four more under the "Ecotec" labeled coil coverġ1) Tap on the cover with a rubber mallet. There are four in the middle now visible with the coil pack removed. I would recommend removing the air intake.ġ0) Loosen and then remove all 14 of the 10 mm bolts holding the valve cover. Be careful here as I broke it off of the air intake box. This provides more wiggle room to disengage the fuel lines from the brackets.ĩ) Unclamp and remove the rubber hose going to the air intake above the throttle body. The bracket will come along with the valve cover.Ĩ) It will be helpful to remove two 10mm nutted studs securing the fuel rails at the radiator side of the engine. The throttle cable bracket should be loose enough to get past now.ħ) Remove the throttle cables from the bracket. Now there will be room to move the throttle cable bracket to allow clearance for the coil pack to be removed.Ĥ) Unplug the wiring connector to the coil pack assembly.ĥ) Remove the four 10mm coil pack mounting bolts.Ħ) Wiggle and lift out the coil pack. There are two 13mm nuts welded onto these studs. These secure the metal fuel lines.ģ) Loosen but don't remove the studs. Cost of parts: Timing kit $129.53, timing cover gasket $23.86, crank bolt $7, valve cover gasket, if needed, $25.27Ģ) Remove two 10mm nuts mounted on studs in the driver's side of the valve cover.Parts: Timing chain kit (Cloyes 9-4201S), timing cover gasket (Fel-Pro TCS46041), crank pulley bolt, valve cover gasket set (Fel-Pro VS50596R), if needed.Materials: Lacquer thinner, motor oil, oil catch pan.Tools: Floor or scissors jack, supports, 10,13 15,18 and 21 sockets, all sizes of ratchets, socket extension bars,universal socket adapter, 10mm allen wrench modified to 3cm, large straight blade screwdriver, pry bar for locking the crank pulley, torque wrench, (inch and ft lb) 10" long 10mm and 15mm box end wrenches, 18mm and 24mm wrenches, breaker bar(s).This is a challenging repair (we got a $1200 estimate) but we completed it successfully and I wish you good results if you tackle this job. We also felt confident that the chain coming loose on start-up made valve damage unlikely, as opposed to under load. A leak down test is ideal here, but we did not have the equipment. There is always the possibility, on an interference engine like this, that valve damage may have occurred. Then we will re-assemble and test the work. A new kit of timing parts will be installed. Correct cam, piston and crank timing will be re-established. Then the chain and associated components will be removed and inspected. This post will cover removal of the valve cover and a front engine tear down. Removal of the valve cover revealed a very loose timing chain. The starter seemed to be running free, as if under no load. One morning this past winter, a friend's 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier cranked but failed to start.
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